Hotel Copernicus

On narrow Kanonicza Street, the oldest one in Krakow, which is lined with Renaissance facades and winds its way up to the Wawel, the royal castle and cathedral, historically the seat of Polish Kings. A few minutes by foot from the main market square, the hotel is a 12-minute drive from the main railway station and an 18-minute drive from the airport.

Step through the Gothic façade into a warm and welcoming lobby illuminated from above with a large skylight. The restaurant on the right is wood panelled and frescoed. In the medieval cellars, a tiny swimming pool has been carved out. The whole is a clever mix of old and new, preserving the historical elements of the hotel while inserting luxurious 21st-century comforts.

Service is really excellent; this is not a hotel that rests on its laurels. There is a small spa in the vaulted Gothic cellars, with a tiny jewel of a swimming pool (but long enough to get some exercise), its light illuminating the surrounding ancient brick walls. There are a few fitness machines and a sauna. The three treatment rooms use products by L’Occitane. Day trips to the surrounding points of interest can be organised directly with the front desk.

The 29 rooms and suites are all different, but there are wooden floors topped with rugs throughout. The Canon’s Suite, so called as this was once the residence of the cathedral canons, has a beautifully restored fresco dating back to 1500. In the Coat of Arms Suite, there is medieval wooden-beamed ceiling. All rooms have period furniture and fine silk curtains and fabrics but are uncluttered, with a certain modern minimalism. Bathrooms come in a mix of travertine and marble and have L’Occitane amenities.

The Copernicus Restaurant is renowned for its food, with a tasting menu at dinner that includes sorrel cream soup with sturgeon caviar and young potatoes and duck with foie gras terrine, quince jam and kohlrabi before a pudding of cottage cheese with Mirabelle plums and sea buckthorn sorbet.

Lunch is more informal and serves favourites such as beef tartare with marinated cucumber, and a selection of pasta and risotto dishes. Breakfast is a buffet of local hams and cheeses, smoked salmon, eggs to order and fresh breads and pastries.

Double rooms from 1,000 Polish złoty (£213) year round. Breakfast 70 Polish złoty (£15). Free Wi-Fi.

No, owing to the heritage restrictions on the building.

Children are welcome but this is much better suited to a romantic break than a family holiday.